The grandeur, elegance, architecture and stories behind the mahals (palaces) and kilas (forts) of Madhya Pradesh have to be experienced first hand. Each has it's own story which is worth telling over and over again. Truly, the Heart of India has one of the best and most picturesque landscapes that are sheer marvel to the naked eye.
Every time I walk through these majestic marvels I imagine how life would be when these would have been in full glory and splendour. When guides describe how rich and endowed the lands were around these places, it makes me wonder how different live was and how beautiful mother nature would have been then. This blog will be work in progress because I still need to travel to more places in MP, so I will keep adding on.
Until then, read on and hopefully I could do justice to describing my experience of my visits these mahals and kilas.
1. Maheshwar Fort-
For a long time my parents lived in a small town near Indore called Mhow. Maheshwar was an hour's drive from Mhow and we went through the small town where the glorious Maheshwari sarees famous throughout India are being weaved right in front of you. Get into one of these shops to see the ultimately creative artisans weave magic into the fabric. Alot of the folklore, scenic temple side ghats are woven into the those amazing fabrics bringing those stories to life.
This temple town on the banks of Narmada River is picturesque beyond imagination. Not only does the main fort on the ghats look amazing but so do the small temples throughout the town that lie near the ghats. Maheshwar has great mythological significance because of its mention in both Mahabharata and Ramayana as the great city of Mahishmati.
Maheshwar Fort was built during Akbar's rule and later during the Holkar dynasty's reign in the late 17th century Rani Ahilyabai Holkar made Maheshwar the capital city. She continued staying in Maheshwar until later as Devi Ahilyabai to her people.
If you're there in the evening do take a boat ride on Narmada and watch this beautiful fort shining in the orange rays of the setting sun. It transcends you into a calm state of mind transporting your thoughts to how beautiful the era of the Holkars would have been. Maheshwar has also been a popular spot for shooting by the Bollywood industry with films like Ashoka, Padman etc making it an even more popular spot for locals.
Location & Getting there- Maheshwar Fort, Ahilya Wada, Maheshwar (drive from Indore would be around 1.5 hours depending on how many times one stops)
Must See Around- Maheshwar Fort, Akhileshwar Temple, Rajarajeshwari Temple, Rajwada, Royal Ghats
2. Mahals and Kilas of Mandu-
Mandu or Mandavgarh is an ancient city adorned with forts and palaces influenced by the Afghan architecture in many ways. The drive from Mhow to Mandu has the entire area surrounded by Baobab trees which are only found in this area in India but are native to Africa. Some say those trees came as a part of the Afghan influence and have very high medicinal properties. The entire feel while walking through Mandu is full of long lost stories between the walls of those palaces.
The tragic love story of Sultan Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati is still famously narrated and the guides in the area fondly try to make you visualize the granduer of these palaces. Even though I visited the place during summers, most tourists prefer monsoons as that is when these palaces are lush green and the lakes surrounding them are full.
Our first stop was Mandu Fort, walls of which run all around the area and can be easily seen from the height of the fort. From there one could see the posts at different points connected by the fort walls which would have been used for emergency signalling in those times.
Next we crossed over at Roopmati Pavillion which had beautiful darwazas (entrances) overlooking the city.
After this we made our way to Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace), the palace resembles a ship or a water craft and during monsoons when it rains alot, the lakes in front and back get filled up and give it the epic ship like feel. The length of Jahaz Mahal is equally magnificent and is very influenced by Afghan architecture.
The thing I loved most about these palaces is the intricate details that have been kept in mind to reuse rain water and natural heating of bathing water. It is amazing how energy efficient and practical life was then is wonderful.
Next it it one must visit the Hindola Mahal (Swinging Palace), the literal meaning of Hindola means baby swing also called Paalna in Hindi. When you look at the shape from out side and inside looks exactly like a baby swing with adornments on the top.
Also along these palaces are Sultan Baz Bahadur's palace with all the pools and huge rooms and personal bath areas in it. Royalty, I tell you! There is also a theatre which was used by kings for watching performances all done up with a stage, side aisles, changing rooms at the back. Along with these is Jaami Mosque which truly is a marvel when it comes to Afghani architecture which intricate and numerous arches and pillars that support the three main domes. Its beautifully designed and gives an ethereal feel showcasing how modern and visually appealling was Mandu's vision even in that era.
Do keep in mind that Mandu itself would take a full day with good amount of walking involved. So do wear the right kind of footwear and plan something lighter for the rest of the evening when you plan to visit Mandu. Also do try the fruit of Baobab from one of the street vendors outside. Slightly sour, it's supposed to have immensely great properties for your health.
Location & Getting there- Maheshwar Fort, Ahilya Wada, Maheshwar (drive from Indore would be around 3 hours depending on how many times one stops ~95 kms from Indore)
Must See Around- Mandu Fort, Roopmati Pavillion, Jahaz Mahal, Hindola Mahal, Jaami Masjid, Hoshang Shah's Tomb, Baz Bahadur Palace, Ashrafi Palace
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